introducing the pumpkin

just thought it was about time to introduce my Hachi. I know this car since 2005 when a pal that goes by the name of Patrick) bought it in germany as his spare AE while he was repairing his 3 door Hachi. When he sold the car in 2007, I was quite low on cash so I suggested him to sell it to another good friend of mine (Yves). So early 2009 Yves decided to sell the car too! And because I couldn’t persuade him to keep it, I simply had to buy it.

The following pic shows how my first drive with the car ended. Engine made a really bad noise and dripped oil after only 1km or so. Rod bearings were gone, main bearings didn’t look good either and as u can imagine it was damaged to. 


So another engine was needed, 20V BT of course. Bought one, disassembled it cleaned it, replaced all rod and main bearings, reassembled it and threw it in the car. The 20V was quite stock and equipped with SP Tec distributor relocation kit, SS Works waterline Kit and Phoenix Tuning wiring loom. Bolted everything up and this is how it rocked the streets and tracks in 2009. Got two sets of wheels, 7.5x15ET0 Konig Bbombs with Toyo R1R for track use and Compomotive 8x15ET0 withe Toyo T1R for street use.

 Car is pretty stock on the outside, 2-door Zenki Levin, black hood, Kouki lights and grille, Sideskirts. Thats about it.

Suspension wise the car runs Greddy Type S coilovers, T3 RCA’s, Prothane Bushings, Cusco strutbar, Cusco Panhard. I just finished the brakes project. Now running RX7 FC3S calipers and adapters, ATE slotted brake discs, HAWK HP Plus brake pads and Goodrich braided brake lines.


The interior had some work too. Wiechers 6-point rollcage, bucket seats, Driftworks 3″ race harness, Momo deep dish steering wheel, short shifter, T3 shift knob, some gauges and a steering wheel snap off. The rest of the interior was emptied, sound deadening removed and the metal was rattlecanned. 

During this winter, the engine has got some love too, still in the process of finishing it, but here’s a quick work list. Haltech E6X standalone ECU, Field patch loom, 266° 9,5mm cams, Toda valvesprings, Racimex oil cooler, Innovate A/F meter, ARP head and conrod bolts. Air is fed through a Pipercross Airbox and some SP Tec trumpets. Did some minor work on the ports, it’s all about “do it yourself” ! Koyo radiator, TRD 4-1 header, T3 de-cat, HKS Silent Hi Power catback were already on the car.


To finish all these specs, here’s a run down for the drivetrain: Fidanza flywheel, Exedy clutch kit, Cusco LSD,…and soon 4.7 diff ratio.

I’m no mechanic, just your random car guy that tries to do as much as possible myself



  1. Having troubles finishing the engine at the moment. I think I just bought the wrong cams! Got valve to piston interferences in VVT mode. If I would start the engine like this, it would kill the valves instantly

    1. hehe, need the parts fast. Car must run in 4 weeks. Got a appointment @ the tuner to get the Haltech set up right
      But if you find a well prepared, stroked, 200+ hp 20V engine, … 🙂

  2. I already told you this car hits all the right spots. It looks exactly like somethin I would’ve done a few years ago. The 4.7 must make that that thing quick as hell.

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