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Project TOSBO: Sep&Oct 2020 – tear-down

As I got the yellow ’70 to a point where I really enjoyed driving it around it was time to make a decision. Keep it as it is for at least 1 more summer or to bite the bullet and start my adventure of a nut&bolt resto/rebuild.
I decided it was now or never, parked the car in our shared car shelter and got the tools out. I started with the engine and the interior so I had a rolling shell until a later state. My goal was to get everything out of the car, EVERYTHING except the front and rear glass. As I’m to afraid to break the 1970 glass and as I’m to unsafe to get it back in after the paint once has dried, I talked to the ‘classic’ bodyshop guys. I arranged they would take it out an put it back in after their metal and paint wizardry was done.

In the front of the cabin you can see the only remains of the original ‘universal blue’ paint the car was delivered in.

Oh, I’m really not looking forward putting the window mechanism or the opening/locking mechanism back in the doors!

Last but not least I got the axles and suspension components out of the car

I ordered some scaffolding pipes and clamps and fabricated a rolling jig. This way it can easily be adjusted to later projects, disassembled for storage, extended,… And it is sturdy enough to be rolled on/off a car trailer.

The shell is now ready. Just waiting for ‘SLG Classic Cars’ to call me. As soon as they have a free spot, we will bring my car to their shop. The shell will then be media blasted, epoxy primered, rebuilt (where needed), prepped, painted, …

By now I’m like 95% decided on the final color, but this changed like 50 times during the last months.
As a color recap:
1970- approx 1991: Datsun universal blue 903
1991-2020: RAL1028 melon yellow
2020-forever: Datsun 907 or Datsun 920

It just has to be an original 1970 S30 color and I narrowed it down to racing green or safari gold.
These colors were available in 1970: 901 Silver gray (metallic) ; 903 Universal blue (metallic) ; 904 Kilimanjaro white ; 905 Monte Carlo red ; 907 Racing green ; 918 New sight Orange ; 919 Sunshine yellow ; 920 Safari gold

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Project TOSBO: Jul-Sep 2020 catch up

As I want to have these post in chronological order, here a little catch up for the months of July-September.
Biggest change and quite a questionable one was to retrofit original Hitachi SU carbs. Building this car by the expression: “keep it stupid simple” As the SU are so easy to live with, easy to tune,… I decided to ditch the DCOEs. IMHO the driveability was less good as my SU equipped 1973 240Z, performance wasn’t any better with the Webers (on a stock engine) and the mileage was way worse. On the positive side there was the looks and the noise, but that wasn’t enough to convince me.
So I found and bought a set of quite early Hitachis and installed them asap

Airbox and heatshield were mounted shortly after tuning.

I installed some front camber top hats which lowered the front by another 15mm and resulted in a more even drop front to rear.

Got in touch with these awesome guys, but more on that later

An somewhere mid September I drove the car for the last time before ending it’s 2020 driving season.

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Project update, small changes for Tosbo

Before tearing the car completely apart sometime next year, I’m trying to repair, retrofit, modify, optimize a few things.

As the car wasn’t that nice to drive, so first thing was to remove the cut springs and replace them by some new ones of the same brand. Of course it now looks to high, imho, but it drives way better. Cut springs had no preload at all, and no real travel, as the slightest compression would let it sit on it’s bumpstopts.

I also removed the slightly worn steering wheel and fitted my Nardi ‘deep’ wich I had laying around. I’m not sure what steering wheel I’ll mount after the resto.

Ordered and mounted some Ramair filters for the DCOEs and repaired the water temp.

I sourced a non series 1 driveshaft, moustache bar and rear transverse link. This is all thats needed to change the rear drivetrain to the later geometry. While at it I also changed the diff support for a hangingt RT diffmount. No more straps or rubber bumbers for Tosbo.

In my quest to optimize the driving sensation a bit more, the car needed a rear swaybar. As it hadn’t any at all. I ordered a complete ST suspensions swaybar set from the US.

And I played with wheels, a lot 😉 Work, Rotas, Konig and JBW

Removed the bumperettes.

Oh, and I enjoyed it a lot.

Now I’m waiting for some camber tops for the front axle and the car definately needs an upgrade in the seat department!

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BIG UPDATE: New Datsun 240Z New Project, the dream-datsun

Big news, I acquired a second Datsun 240Z. At the end I couldn’t resist any longer and had to buy this yellow beauty from my best mate!
So a few months ago my mate Yves decided to sell it, what a bad decision 😉 I hesitated to long, and it was pretty much sold, but I’ve been given a second chance and now it’s mine. Couldn’t be any happier.
1970 series 1 240Z, originally in universal blue, but refinished 30+ years ago in yellow.

Cool story bro: Back in 2004 (or was it 2005) this particular car was my first real encounter with a 240Z. I knew since circa 2003 that I would love to own one, but as they aren’t really common here in Europe this yellow and a purple one which was parked just next to it where the first S30 I really laid my eyes on. Even took 3 picture of it back then, so here is one of them.
And yes it’s 100% the same car my best buddy bought about 13-14 years later.

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I’ll drive it ‘as is’ for at least this summer, which gives me time to establish a plan for it’s ‘nut&bolt’ resto.
As my blue 240Z now has Work Equip wheels I instantly mounted my 14″ wheels:

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by monkeymagic

Alps part 2

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So here is a list of our route:

Stage 0+1 Luxembourg-Grimselpasshöhe  460km + 160km

As some of us (2x240Z and the BMW 1600-2) didn’t like to start early on a Wednesday morning, we decided to drive down to Switzerland a day early and spent the evening/night near Luzern. So we took a leisurely cruise to Switzerland without slowing down the others on the highway.

Luxembourg – Luzern – Brünigpass – Sustenpass – San Gottardo – Nufenenpass – Grimselpasshöhe

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Stage 2 Grimselpasshöhe – Livigno  350km

Grimselpasshöhe – Furkapass – Lukmanierpass – San Bernardino Pass – Splügenpass – Malojapass – Berninapass – Via Forcola – Livigno

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Stage 3 Livigno – Livigno  219km

Livigno – Ofenpass – Umbrailpass – Passo Stelvio – Gaviapass – Mortirolopass – Passo di Foscagno – Livigno

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Stage 4 Livigno – Arosa 241km

Livigno – Flüelapass – Albulapass – Julierpass – Lenzerheidepass – Arosa
Where the Arosa classic hillrace was held on that day

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Stage 5 Arosa – Luxembourg 581km

Mostly boring highways and such. Easy drive back home

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Alps 2019

About 6 weeks ago I returned from this years trip to the swiss and italian alps.

Due to lack of time and laziness, I didn’t had the opportunity to share the pics of this trip with you guys.

I won’t write a huge post about it. Just the most necessary: 5 days, 2500km, 25 alp passes, 12 buddies, another lifetime experience. My Datsun 240Z did great! All in all we were a group of 9 cars with 5 classics:

2x Datsun 240Z

2x Triumph GT6

1x BMW 1600-2

and a Z4M, an BMW M3, a Camaro, a Mustang.

I will add the complete route later. The Daily stages were:

Luxembourg-Grimselpasshöhe

Grimselpasshöhe-Livigno

Livigno-Livigno

Livigno-Arosa

Arosa-Luxembourg

Our group:

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So here is a gallery from DAY 1, more will follow:

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Project Datto update

So yesterday I took the car out for a spin, so winter is officially over for the Datto.

But first things first, Here are 2 more modifications I did these last few weeks. I fitted new 3-point inertia safety belts (more on this later). And I fitted the 123 ignition distributor.


Yes, it’s a complete distributor, advance can be programmed via Bluetooth and the 123 app on your phone. Installation was straight forward, just go by the manual, easy peasy. Mount everything up
connect 2 wires
set the dizzy according to the 123 manual
hook up the 3rd wire
Put a cap on the dizzy and wire your spark wires according to the firing order and relative to the position of the dizzy finger after the installation.

So here are a few questions I had prior the installation and which I now can answer myself.
Will the tach still work?    Yes
Keep or ditch the coil ballast?      I used a new Bosch Red coil which has a primary resistance of 1.6 Ohm, so I kept the ballast. Works fine. If you are using a 3 Ohm coil, you might be able to ditch the ballast.
These are the advance curves I’m running from start, they might change slightly once I got more time to play with them.

 

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Project Datto: Winter Update

So as the winter period is the time of the year to do some resto work and updates, here is a little update. This winter it’s mostly around the rear of the car. So I removed the fuel tank, inspected the inside and decided an outside resto is all it needed. I mechanically stripped it, put it in rust converter (KSD Kovermi) and brush painted it in Brantho Corrux 3-1, which is a primer, rust protector and paint. All in one.

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I also decided to clean that mess of vent hoses which can be found on these later and US cars. I pretty much converted it to early EU/Japan layout. Put on all new hoses, restored the tank fixing straps (Stripped, rust converter, paint), new vents.
Here is a graph of my new vent line layout:

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While the tank was out I also cleaned the underside. How could you not. So same process as always: stripping old under seal and paint, rust converter, 3in1 paint.

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As I also had ordered new U-joints, boots,… quite a while ago I restored the rear axles to. Removed the axles, disassembled and cleaned, stripped the paint, repainted, greased everything up. Removed the U-joints, fitted new U-joints with the shop press, fitted new boots.

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And I prepared everything for a rear wing install. No, not necessarily for the looks only, but to test and try to get rid of the exhaust fumes in the car. It’s worth a try!
But more on this later.