Out of consideration for my other project cars (E36&Fiat 128) I had to postpone the completion of the cruise control and the installation of the rear disc brakes on my 240Z.
But as these mods aren’t vital or huge tasks, they can easily be done in 1 day during the season. So they’ll have to wait.
So the Datsun is now together and waiting for the season to begin.
Over the winter I managed to change the hatch seals, the hatch hinges, started some cruise control stuff, rebuilt my 5-speed gearbox, renewed the drivers seat chassis section, replaced the drivers door seal, got the new WORK wheels, changed the speedo’s fascia to km/h, relocated the choke lever mount, fabricated some new “padded” vinyl covers for the tunnel, sills and the vertical portion of the parcel shelve behind the seats, fitted new kick panels and some other minor stuff
Now let’s hope for some good weather soon
Whoop whoop, just got contacted to inform me that my new wheels for the Datto have been finished assembling at WORK wheels in Japan. Now I’ll patiently wait for them to be delivered.
Yepp, I finally decided to spend some bucks and buy the dream wheels for my dream car.
WORK Equip40 in 15×8. Gold centers with polished lips. 2 things I already know by now:
- I will love how they look
- I will hate to clean them (the actual gunmetal wheels are so easy to clean
Apart from the alps pictures, these are my favorite shots of 2019. In no particular order.
And a less scenic picture of 2020, but more on this later.
So here is a list of our route:
Stage 0+1 Luxembourg-Grimselpasshöhe 460km + 160km
As some of us (2x240Z and the BMW 1600-2) didn’t like to start early on a Wednesday morning, we decided to drive down to Switzerland a day early and spent the evening/night near Luzern. So we took a leisurely cruise to Switzerland without slowing down the others on the highway.
Luxembourg – Luzern – Brünigpass – Sustenpass – San Gottardo – Nufenenpass – Grimselpasshöhe
Stage 2 Grimselpasshöhe – Livigno 350km
Grimselpasshöhe – Furkapass – Lukmanierpass – San Bernardino Pass – Splügenpass – Malojapass – Berninapass – Via Forcola – Livigno
Stage 3 Livigno – Livigno 219km
Livigno – Ofenpass – Umbrailpass – Passo Stelvio – Gaviapass – Mortirolopass – Passo di Foscagno – Livigno
Stage 4 Livigno – Arosa 241km
Livigno – Flüelapass – Albulapass – Julierpass – Lenzerheidepass – Arosa
Where the Arosa classic hillrace was held on that day
Stage 5 Arosa – Luxembourg 581km
Mostly boring highways and such. Easy drive back home
About 6 weeks ago I returned from this years trip to the swiss and italian alps.
Due to lack of time and laziness, I didn’t had the opportunity to share the pics of this trip with you guys.
I won’t write a huge post about it. Just the most necessary: 5 days, 2500km, 25 alp passes, 12 buddies, another lifetime experience. My Datsun 240Z did great! All in all we were a group of 9 cars with 5 classics:
2x Datsun 240Z
2x Triumph GT6
1x BMW 1600-2
and a Z4M, an BMW M3, a Camaro, a Mustang.
I will add the complete route later. The Daily stages were:
So here is a gallery from DAY 1, more will follow:
So yesterday I took the car out for a spin, so winter is officially over for the Datto.
But first things first, Here are 2 more modifications I did these last few weeks. I fitted new 3-point inertia safety belts (more on this later). And I fitted the 123 ignition distributor.
Yes, it’s a complete distributor, advance can be programmed via Bluetooth and the 123 app on your phone. Installation was straight forward, just go by the manual, easy peasy. Mount everything up
connect 2 wires
set the dizzy according to the 123 manual
hook up the 3rd wire
Put a cap on the dizzy and wire your spark wires according to the firing order and relative to the position of the dizzy finger after the installation.
So here are a few questions I had prior the installation and which I now can answer myself.
Will the tach still work? Yes
Keep or ditch the coil ballast? I used a new Bosch Red coil which has a primary resistance of 1.6 Ohm, so I kept the ballast. Works fine. If you are using a 3 Ohm coil, you might be able to ditch the ballast.
These are the advance curves I’m running from start, they might change slightly once I got more time to play with them.
So as the winter period is the time of the year to do some resto work and updates, here is a little update. This winter it’s mostly around the rear of the car. So I removed the fuel tank, inspected the inside and decided an outside resto is all it needed. I mechanically stripped it, put it in rust converter (KSD Kovermi) and brush painted it in Brantho Corrux 3-1, which is a primer, rust protector and paint. All in one.
I also decided to clean that mess of vent hoses which can be found on these later and US cars. I pretty much converted it to early EU/Japan layout. Put on all new hoses, restored the tank fixing straps (Stripped, rust converter, paint), new vents.
Here is a graph of my new vent line layout:
While the tank was out I also cleaned the underside. How could you not. So same process as always: stripping old under seal and paint, rust converter, 3in1 paint.
As I also had ordered new U-joints, boots,… quite a while ago I restored the rear axles to. Removed the axles, disassembled and cleaned, stripped the paint, repainted, greased everything up. Removed the U-joints, fitted new U-joints with the shop press, fitted new boots.
And I prepared everything for a rear wing install. No, not necessarily for the looks only, but to test and try to get rid of the exhaust fumes in the car. It’s worth a try!
But more on this later.