So yesterday I took the car out for a spin, so winter is officially over for the Datto.
But first things first, Here are 2 more modifications I did these last few weeks. I fitted new 3-point inertia safety belts (more on this later). And I fitted the 123 ignition distributor.
Yes, it’s a complete distributor, advance can be programmed via Bluetooth and the 123 app on your phone. Installation was straight forward, just go by the manual, easy peasy. Mount everything up
connect 2 wires
set the dizzy according to the 123 manual
hook up the 3rd wire
Put a cap on the dizzy and wire your spark wires according to the firing order and relative to the position of the dizzy finger after the installation.
So here are a few questions I had prior the installation and which I now can answer myself.
Will the tach still work? Yes
Keep or ditch the coil ballast? I used a new Bosch Red coil which has a primary resistance of 1.6 Ohm, so I kept the ballast. Works fine. If you are using a 3 Ohm coil, you might be able to ditch the ballast.
These are the advance curves I’m running from start, they might change slightly once I got more time to play with them.
So I get asked quite often how I realised my front brake conversion on the AE86. So here are some details:
First of all you need someone who sells the caliper adapters. You can find some @ AJPS in Australia. As shipping would have killed me, I decided to search something mor local. I luckily found a guy in Austria who machined the at that time.
Then you need some nice, good working RX7 FC or FD caliper. They are all over ebay.
Then brake discs, you can either get some EG Civic discs (262x21mm) or get some Mini Cooper S (279x22mm) discs like me and re-drill them to the needed diameter. Following pic shows the Mini Copper disc next to a AE86 disc => yes it will improve your braking!
Here are all the needed parts for the next step
Put everything together and go testing if your wheels still fit. You’ll most probably need 15″ wheels.
If you got everything back together, fill up brake fluid, bleed,… Go take your car out for a spin. Realise your pedal feel is really awkward now. Return to the garage and do some internet research.
I quickly found out that this setup doesn’t work that great with the standard AE86 brake master cylinder. But Toyota is a bit like Lego, found some info about the Landcruiser brake master cylinder. It’s bigger in diameter, so it can handle more brake fluid when pressing the pedal.
Sourced that brake master cylinder, realised it costs a fortune @ Toyota (over 500 bucks). Sourced another one somewhere on the internet for a bit more than half that price, ordered, mounted (your brake lines need some slight rerouting, but no cutting or such, just bending). I was so happy with my new brake feel and performance now! Some pics of the brake master so you know what you are looking for (only if your AE86 is equipped with a 2 screw brake master like mine was)
If you want to re-establish a bit more front/rear brake balance, do some internet research and get yourself the most aggressive rear brake pads that you can find. It will work a charm. No need for upgraded rear calipers,…
Hope this helped a bit!
Sorry for the lack of updates guys. But my free time was really little these last days. Went 2 days to Amsterdam, visited a little AE meet in France on Saturday and returned to the Netherlands on Sunday to pick up another engine for my mates new AE86.
But I also got some work, got every sync ring and bearing of the T50 gearbox replaced, all new gaskets and a shifter rebuild kit. Swapped gearboxes, drives like a charm. I really like the feel of this “almost” new gearbox!
Oh, and my mate Tom got his self this beautiful hachi. It was equipped with a 98% finished GZE job. And guess what. We just tore the supercharger engine out to retrofit a nice 4AGE bluetop, complete with loom and everything. Hachi’s just have to be N/A !!! period
Just look forward to see some more about this hachi here in near future.
So, let’s update on my engine build. Tuesday was dyno mapping day. Alarm rang at 5:30 in the morning, started the TomTom and off we went. Destination KWL Motorsport in Leverkusen/Germany. The only good thing of leaving early are empty roads and gorgeous lighting!
After 3 hours of exhaust, ITB and differential noises I eventually arrived. Changed the rear tires, setup the car on the dyno, connected O2 sensors, laptops,…
KWL Motorsport is a kind of old school race prepping garage. They do a lot of old VWs, Kugelfischer injections,… So while letting the boss do his things to my fuel and ignition maps, I studied their race cars. Audi 50, VW Polo Derby and 2 Scriroccos
A few hours, coffees and chats later I changed the rear wheels again and drove home. What a difference! Engine runs great, way more torque than before,…
So, what everyone is waiting for, the results.
108kW / 147cv at the wheels
Min 85% of torque from 3500 to 7500 RPM
127kW / 173 CV at the flywheel.
Here they are, compared to my previous engines, the 4AGE and the 20V I killed early 2010
Dyno mapping: check
Track testing: tomorrow!